The Yumibio Blog

Henna: Frequently Asked Questions

Using henna and herbal dyes is a safe way to cover gray hair without damaging your hair. People often approach this world with the fear of unsatisfactory results, so I've compiled all your frequently asked questions about henna and herbal dyes into a single post to address some of the most common concerns. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to answer them in the comments or messages so we can clarify your concerns and expand our guide together! Index What is henna? What color can I get with henna? Henna on bleached or dyed hair After doing henna, can I go back to chemical dyes or bleach my hair? Does it cover gray hair? Can I lighten my hair with henna? Does henna dry out your hair? What does it mean that henna layers? How is it prepared? Why are acids added to henna? Exposure time Can I use oil in henna? Can you get henna with a perm? Can you get a perm with henna? Does henna ruin your hair? Does henna smooth curly hair? Can I use metal tools with henna? Is it done on dry or wet hair? Is it done on clean or dirty hair? Is henna cleansing? After henna, can I not wash my hair for three days? Can I use conditioner when I remove henna? Does acid rinsing alter the color? After how many washes does the color fade? Should herbal dyes always be made with henna? Want to find out more about henna? What is henna? Henna is a dye powder obtained from the leaves of Lawsonia inermis. Henna is naturally rich in substances that nourish, add body, and shine to hair, as well as being very beneficial for the scalp. What color can I get with henna? Pure henna dyes exclusively red; the result varies depending on the original color and will be more evident on white and light hair, while on dark hair, it will mainly produce highlights. On the market you can often find products called blonde henna, brown henna, black henna, etc., but they are actually mixes of dyeing herbs. Henna on bleached or dyed hair Yes, you can use henna on dyed or bleached hair, as long as you use pure henna without the addition of picramate. Keep in mind that the color you get on the bleached area will be different from the color on your natural base ; to be sure you get a result you like, test it on a strand of hair from the brush before proceeding with coloring all of your hair. If you want to use pure indigo or mixes that contain it, you will have to do a double pass on the bleached hair: indigo, in fact, dyes the hair blue and you could end up with unsightly green highlights! After doing henna, can I go back to chemical dyes or bleach my hair? Yes, but you'll be so happy with the results that you won't want to go back! In any case, if you used pure henna, there's no risk in going back to chemical dye. As for bleaching, it depends on the herbs you used: if you used only pure henna, you can bleach without any problems, but the final result you will get will not be blonde but coppery. Absolutely no bleaching if you have used indigo , as you could end up with green hair! Does it cover gray hair? Pure henna (lawsonia inermis) permanently covers gray hair, as it binds with the hair's keratin. The final result, on gray hair, will be a very intense coppery red, which, however, may not be to everyone's taste. In these cases, simply mix pure henna with other dyeing herbs, such as Katam or Indigo, which will help tone down the red, giving your hair shades of brown, chocolate, or mahogany. If you have a lot of gray hair or if you want very intense dark tones, such as black/blue, raven or aubergine, it is necessary to proceed with a two-phase coloring: in a first phase we will cover the gray hairs using only pure lawsonia, to be left on for at least two hours. After rinsing, we can apply pure katam or indigo to achieve a more intense color. My advice is to use a percentage of Lawsonia for this second step as well, to help the color set better. Can I lighten my hair with henna? No, herbal dyes cannot lighten hair. There are several methods for achieving gradual, natural, tone-on-tone lightening. Does henna dry out your hair? Henna absorbs excess sebum and is excellent for oily scalps; on normal or dry hair, it can cause a drying effect, but this can be easily countered by adding a hydrating gel to the mixture or applying a light, oil-free conditioner after rinsing. What does it mean that henna layers? With repeated applications, henna tends to build up in layers within the hair and darken the color. This is perfect if you want dark, cool tones, but if you prefer warmer tones, you should avoid layering. To avoid layering, simply use pure henna on your roots to cover regrowth and treat your lengths only every two months. Another method is to use a different blend for your lengths, with a high percentage of cassia to tone down the henna's dyeing power, or to mix henna with a mask or conditioner to create a sherazade. How is it prepared? Henna is prepared by mixing the right amount of powder with hot, not boiling, water. The ideal temperature is between 50 and 70 degrees: this will allow the henna to release the dye pigments optimally. The right consistency for the mixture is that of yogurt, smooth and without lumps. A batter that is too thick could lead to uneven results, while one that is too liquid could drip everywhere, making application uncomfortable. Why are acidic substances added to henna? Some say that acidic substances help release more pigment and therefore make the henna more coloring. However, these are not necessary ingredients, since a good quality powder releases the color simply thanks to hot water. The addition of acidic substances could alter the tone of the henna, making it turn brick red. Personally, I don't use any acids in the mixture because I have a sensitive scalp and don't like having acids in contact with my skin for many hours. However, some people prefer the color obtained in an acidic environment, so you just have to experiment to find out which method works best for your hair. If you use indigo , the mixture does not need to be acidified, as these herbs work best in a basic environment: you can add a teaspoon of salt or bicarbonate of soda to the water you use to prepare the mixture, to obtain very intense dark tones. Exposure time There are several factors that determine the exposure time, first and foremost patience! A good quality henna dyes hair after just 2 hours of application, but it is possible to wait longer to obtain more intense colors. There are those who continue the application for several hours, doing night-time poses of up to 8 or 9 hours. If you're new to henna, I advise against leaving it on for such a long time, as you might end up with a color that's too intense or you might find that your skin is particularly sensitive to the preparation. Start with a short processing time: 90 minutes/2 hours will be more than enough to understand how your hair reacts to natural pigments and, if you feel the need, you can gradually increase the processing time. From personal experience, I recommend not leaving it on for more than 4 hours, choosing more frequent applications if you prefer to intensify the color. Can I use oil in henna? I don't recommend it because the oil forms a film on the hair and limits the effectiveness of the mask and dye. However, some women have noticed greater color release when adding oil to the paste. If you want to experiment, I recommend using a spoonful of jojoba oil and seeing how your henna behaves! Can you get henna with a perm? Yes, no problem! Can you get a perm with henna? Yes, no problem! Does henna ruin your hair? Exactly the opposite! Henna makes them more beautiful, strong, and full-bodied! Does henna smooth curly hair? Henna makes hair a little thicker, but it doesn't straighten curls! In fact, it tames and defines them! Can I use metal tools with henna? Yes, you can safely use your stainless steel kitchen utensils. Is it done on dry or wet hair? You can use henna on both dry and wet hair. It's easier to apply the mixture to damp hair, especially if you have a lot of hair or very curly hair. If you suffer from migraines, neck pain, or other problems, I recommend applying henna to dry hair. Is it done on clean or dirty hair? Better clean because, like oils, sebum could hinder the release of color. Is henna cleansing? No, because it doesn't contain saponins. If you wash your hair often and want to try a more gentle cleansing, you can consult our After henna, can I not wash my hair for three days? No, that's not true. You can wash your hair with shampoo. In reality, it's usually not necessary because if you washed your hair just before using henna, it's sufficient. Can I use conditioner when I remove henna? Yes, it will help you detangle your hair and remove any residual dust. Does acid rinsing alter the color? No, not at all! The acid rinse helps close the hair cuticles and make it softer and shinier. After how many washes does the color fade? Henna binds to keratin and is therefore permanent. You will have a faded and washed out color over time, but it will not go away. Should herbal dyes always be made with henna? Yes, if we want to make them long-lasting because the lawsonia contained only in henna is the only one capable of binding to the keratin of the hair. Want to find out more about henna? With henna you can cover gray hair and get the color you want! Find out which herbs are best for your hair and create the color you've always dreamed of! Want to continue discovering the world of henna and natural dyes? Continue reading in our section dedicated to all our henna and herbal dye guides . Once you've fallen in love with henna, you'll never be able to do without these Ayurvedic herbs and their powers. Did you know you can also use them to wash your hair? Find out more in our guide to alternative hair washes .