The Yumibio Blog
Fermented Rice Water: The Perfect Hair and Skin Care
Fermented rice water is an ancient treatment, already used in oriental medicine as a powerful beauty elixir, capable of keeping the skin young and toned and of making hair grow stronger and shinier. In Japan during the Heian period (between the 8th and 12th centuries BC), court women used it on their hair every day and called it Yu-Su-Ru. Fermented rice water: the properties Rice water contains vitamins B and E, mineral salts, nutrient molecules and folic acid, elements very useful for hair and skin. With fermentation, rice water also develops a high concentration of antioxidant substances and an astringent and sebum-regulating function, which makes it ideal against acne, blackheads and dandruff. The benefits of rice water for hair Rice water is rich in starch, an ingredient with a hydrating and emollient action; starch also manages to create a sort of film on the hair, which thickens the shaft and protects it from breakage, split ends and fragility. Thanks to the extra hydration provided by the starch, hair also becomes shinier and more elastic: this helps you tame frizz and have more elastic and defined curls ! Rich in vitamins, amino acids and minerals, rice water is also excellent for soothing the scalp in case of itching, dandruff and irritation. With fermentation, rice water also develops an acidic pH, very similar to that of the hair: this makes it ideal for post-shampoo illuminating treatments and as an acid hair rinse . How to prepare rice water? Preparing rice water is very simple: you can prepare it with a cold or hot process. I'll tell you both, so you can choose the one that's most convenient for you. How to make cold rice water Cold preparation of rice water is easy, fast and maintains many nutrients that, in hot preparation, degrade. Compared to hot rice water, however, it contains less starch. I therefore recommend this preparation if you are interested in preserving vitamins and minerals or if you do not have time to cook it using the hot method. To prepare cold rice water , proceed as follows: 1. Rinse a cup of rice under running water and pour it into a bowl; 2. Add room temperature water until it covers the rice and let it sit for about an hour, stirring occasionally to help release the nutrients. When the water is cloudy, you can filter it and pour it into a clean container. How to make hot rice water Hot preparation takes a little longer. 1. Bring 50 grams of rice to the boil in about two cups of water. 2. Cook the rice according to the cooking times on the package, without adding salt. Filter the water obtained (which will be denser than the one prepared cold) and pour it into a container. The extra zero-waste tip: the rice mask: You can use the rice you cooked in the kitchen or you can make a hydrating hair mask pre-shampoo : blend the rice you cooked together with a spoonful of coconut oil and a spoonful of honey. If it is too thick, add a little rice water! Apply to all damp hair, cover with a shower cap and leave on for at least 15 minutes before shampooing. How to make fermented rice water? Fermented rice water is very simple to make. Follow the cold method we use for rice water, so cover a cup of rice with room temperature water and stir occasionally. The rice should be left in water for 24-48 hours before filtering the water. After 48 hours, filter the resulting liquid, pour it into a glass container and store it in the fridge to stop the fermentation. Fermented rice water will keep for a maximum of one week. How to use fermented rice water? You can use fermented rice water for a very quick hydrating pack: pour the product into a spray bottle and spray it all over your damp hair after shampooing. If you don't have a spray bottle, you can simply pour it into a basin and soak your hair in it. Massage to distribute the product throughout the hair and leave on for at least 15 minutes. Rinse under running water and proceed to drying. You can also use fermented rice water as an acid rinse for hair : in a bottle, dilute the fermented rice water with the same amount of cold water or infusion or hydrolate. Use it on your hair as a final rinse to make it soft and shiny!
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How not to waste products by using the right amount
What are the right quantities of products for your beauty routine? How do you understand if you are applying enough of the product or if you are putting too little? It is good to start by telling you that according to research conducted by Howard Maibach, a dermatologist at the University of California School of Medicine at San Francisco, there is no such thing as an insufficient dose of product. In fact, even the smallest amount of cosmetic is absorbed by the skin! But how to measure the product correctly to avoid waste? The right quantities of product to avoid wasting cosmetics Of course, using the right amount of product is essential. Because, even if there is no insufficient dose of product, applying too little can mean not achieving the desired effect. And, of course, using too much means wasting the product itself and damaging your skin: excess product can in fact settle on the skin and clog pores, leading to blemishes and oiliness. But then what are the right quantities of product to use to not waste anything and still obtain the desired effect? As you might guess, the right amounts vary depending on the type of product and your personal circumstances. For example, the shampoo you should use if you have very long hair is different from that of someone with a shorter cut. Let's see the average quantities of product per single application, to help you not to waste anything of your beauty routine: • Shampoo , about 10 g at a time. A little more than the weight of a 2€ coin • Face cream, about 2 g per application, about the volume of a blueberry. • Make-up remover , approximately 8g which is equivalent to the weight of a 50 cent euro coin • Detergent , just over 2 g, as much as a blackberry! This is especially true for foaming detergents • Scrub , about 5 g, which corresponds to a walnut. In fact, the scrub, whether chemical or mechanical, is always a product that could be too aggressive. 5 g is all you need, distribute it evenly and massage gently • Toner , 4 drops maximum. Remember that toner is a very concentrated product and therefore a very small amount is enough! • Serum , very few grams. In fact, serum is among the most concentrated products, 3 drops are enough. • Eye contour , also in this case we are talking about a few grams. The quantity also changes depending on the type of eye contour you use but, on average, a quantity equal to about a pine nut is sufficient for both eyes. These are the quantities that the companies that produce the products also refer to in order to evaluate their safety and efficacy. Also remember to read the product packaging carefully. They often indicate the right quantities to use so as not to waste even a drop! And also pay attention to the packaging. If your serum package, for example, has a dispenser, it is very likely that that is the right amount to use to obtain the desired results and not waste anything. Watch out for pilling! Is using the right amount of product only useful from a waste perspective? Whether it is an ecological or economic waste, is it really the only reason why it is worth calculating the right amount? Absolutely not! In fact, using the right amount of product also helps you avoid the famous pilling effect, that is, the phenomenon whereby the applied product, during the massage and absorption phase, begins to form small lumps. Not to mention the risk of clogging your skin pores and all that that entails! In short, the qb rule does not only apply to cooking! Also because, the quantities indicated are average and, as already said, are not valid for all circumstances. But, if you are still in doubt, also remember the rule of the finger tip: never use a product in a quantity greater than the first joint of your index finger! Are you one of those people who already used the right amount of product or, reading these lines, did you realize that maybe you were wasting at least a small part of it?
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Solari: Frequently Asked Questions Answered
Sunscreens are essential cosmetics to protect us from the sun all year round, but especially in summer when we spend much more time outdoors and begin to uncover ourselves more. In this article we answer your frequently asked questions about sunscreens, to shed light on one of the most important cosmetics for healthy and protected skin! In this article we talk about: Why do I need to protect myself from the sun's rays? What are UVA and UVB rays? What does SPF indicate? What are sunscreens? What are physical/mineral sunscreens? What are chemical/organic sunscreens? Which is better: sunscreens with chemical filters or physical filters? Are chemical filters safe? Will I tan less if I use sunscreen? Do sunscreens block vitamin D production? If I eat carrots, will I get more tanned? Should I use sunscreen for children? How much sunscreen should I apply? How often should sunscreen be applied? Can I use last year's cream? Does self-tanner prepare your skin for the sun? Do sunscreens pollute the seas? Is aftersun necessary? How to remove sunscreen? Why do I need to protect myself from the sun's rays? The sun has many positive effects : it helps our body produce Vitamin D – great for bones, muscles and the immune system. Sunlight also stimulates the production of endorphins, which create a good mood, improve circulation, speed up metabolism and stimulate productivity. But too much sun exposure can cause damage such as: premature aging, sun allergies and even skin cancer. Therefore, it is essential to protect the face and body from the negative effects of UVA and UVB rays, especially the skin of children and that of people with fair skin, who suffer from sun allergies, or those who have undergone dermatological treatments. What are UVA and UVB rays? The sun's rays that reach our skin are of two types: UVA and UVB. UVA rays are present all day long and can penetrate even through clouds and glass. UVB rays, on the other hand, change in intensity during the day and have their maximum power around midday. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and play a major role in long-term damage, such as premature skin aging, sun allergies and DNA damage. UVB rays are responsible for acute sun damage such as sunburn, skin cancer, and damage to the retina and eyes. What does SPF indicate? SPF is a number that indicates the amount of UVB radiation “stopped” by the sunscreen : an SPF 15 will let one-fifteenth of the UVB radiation pass through, while an SPF 50 will only let one-fiftieth. The higher the number, the less UVB gets through. A cream with SPF 30 lets through no more than 1/30 of UVB rays, blocking almost 97%. A cream with SPF 50 lets through 1/50 of the rays, blocking approximately 98%. Therefore, there are no total screen creams and in Europe, following the indications of the European Commission, it is not possible to find creams with SPF higher than 50+. This is to protect the consumer, who could be misled by SPFs that are too high, putting their health at risk. Some creams also offer protection from UVA rays and are indicated with the UVA label. It is not mandatory to specify the UVA protection index at the moment, but to apply the UVA label to the product, the sunscreen must contain an anti-UVA filter equal to at least a third of the indicated SPF, so if we have a cream with SPF 30, the UVA-PF will be at least 10. What are sunscreens? Sunscreens are chemical compounds that absorb, scatter, or reflect UV rays. In Europe only 28 sun filters are authorised , all of which are listed in Annex VI of EC Regulation No. 1223/2009. What are physical/mineral sunscreens? Physical filters, also called inorganic or mineral filters, are molecules whose main property is to reflect or diffuse UV rays. In Europe, the following physical filters are currently permitted in sunscreens: titanium dioxide; titanium dioxide nanoparticles; zinc oxide; zinc oxide nanoparticles. For each of these filters, the European Union establishes the maximum concentration that can be used in the finished product and what characteristics they must have, for example in terms of purity. What are chemical/organic sunscreens? The main feature of chemical filters is to absorb UV radiation and transform it into a form of energy that is not harmful to the skin. There are several types of chemical filters, which are often combined to give the sunscreen a broader spectrum of radiation absorption. Which is better: sunscreens with chemical filters or physical filters? Both physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens have advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look. Chemical sunscreens Chemical sunscreens have the advantage of being particularly effective and of being able to guarantee higher sun protection, ensuring an even tan. The disadvantage of these filters is that they absorb solar energy and, therefore, present the risk of starting photochemical reactions. So be careful about the filters you choose! Not all filters are the same and often very low-priced sunscreens may contain low-cost ingredients that damage your skin and the environment! Physical sunscreens Physical sunscreens are photo-stable, are not damaged by solar radiation and, moreover, thanks to their composition, are particularly safe for the health of the skin. The main problem with these filters is that it is not always possible to have a high protection factor without the unsightly white trail. New formulation techniques allow the use of microencapsulated filters that are easier to spread, but the textures are unfortunately still heavy when compared to products with chemical filters. Are chemical filters safe? A few years ago, news broke that, according to some studies, some ingredients in sunscreens can pass through the skin barrier and enter the microcirculation. However, what is important in evaluating an ingredient is not the absorption of the molecule but what it can cause once in circulation. For this reason, in the case of some ingredients such as sunscreens, there are safety margins. In Europe, the safety margin must be greater than 100: this means that the maximum absorption can be one hundredth of the dose that can cause damage. Simply put, to have any potential harm from using an ingredient, we would have to use a dose over 100 times higher than that indicated! Will I tan less if I use sunscreen? No. However, with sunscreen, tanning takes longer. As we saw before, sunscreens still let some UV rays pass through, which will stimulate melanin and make us tan. However, the amount of rays received by our skin will be less and the tan will therefore be slower and more gradual, until we reach the maximum that our phototype allows. Do sunscreens block vitamin D production? No. As we have seen, sunscreens allow some of the UV rays to still hit the skin, thus stimulating the production of vitamin D necessary for our well-being. If I eat carrots, will I tan more? No. A tan is caused by the stimulation of melanin that is caused by the sun's rays. There is a maximum limit to the tan that we can obtain and it is given by genetics. Eating carrots (and orange fruits and vegetables) is still a great idea: they are rich in antioxidants and vitamin A, essential for healthy bones and eyes. Should I use sunscreen for children? Sunscreens for children have a more delicate formulation, often free of fragrances or potentially allergenic substances. The Ministry of Health recommends not exposing children under 6 months of age to the sun and always preferring clothing, shade and clothes with SPF for the little ones. Sunscreens for children are still safe, certified and controlled by the European Union but remember that children's skin is more delicate and sensitive and it is therefore better to avoid exposure to the sun, especially during the hottest hours. How much sunscreen should I apply? So much! Sunscreen effectiveness tests are done on a standard dose of 2 mg of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin. This means that the SPF is calculated based on this amount. Applying less cream means drastically reducing the protection factor. What does this amount correspond to? An "average" person of 1.60 m x 60 kg would need about 30 g of sunscreen. Simply put, a 150ml bottle should last just under 5 applications! How often should sunscreen be applied? Often. As we have seen, sunscreen is effective as long as we use the right amount. We usually use much less and, more frequent applications, help us reach the amount necessary for good protection. As a general rule, remember that sunscreen works like a barrier: it protects you as long as it is intact. For this reason, apply it at least half an hour before arriving at the beach and apply it again as soon as you get there. Reapply every 2 hours, after bathing, sweating or rubbing your skin. Can I use last year's cream? Better not. All cosmetics report a PAO , which indicates the period of time in which the cosmetic is safe after opening. This guarantees that, within that period of time, the cosmetic is safe from bacterial contamination, mold, etc. According to tests carried out by consumer associations, no differences in terms of UV protection were found in sunscreens from the previous year, but I recommend that you always use the product by the date indicated by the PAO. If you have some sunscreen left over from the end of the summer, use it every day to protect your face, neck and décolleté even in the city: you will avoid wrinkles, spots and discolorations! Does self-tanner prepare your skin for the sun? No. A tan is the result of the production of melanin, a substance that our skin produces when exposed to the sun, to protect itself from the damage of UV rays. When we use self-tanning products, we do not stimulate melanin, but we obtain a "coloring" of the outer layers of the skin, due to a chemical reaction between a sugar contained in the product and the skin proteins. This color is temporary and does not protect from the sun's rays. Do sunscreens pollute the seas? Recent studies have shown that some sunscreens can promote coral bleaching and are therefore prohibited in some areas of the world. However, even if you choose to use sunscreens with reef-safe filters, remember that all the other components of the sunscreen can also be harmful to the marine environment, especially in areas where the water exchange is slow (for example lakes) or where there is a large influx of people. Is aftersun necessary? Yes. The sun causes a lot of stress to our skin and it is therefore important to pamper it after exposure with products that contain soothing and emollient ingredients, preferably easy to spread so as to avoid rubbing. How to remove sunscreen? With double cleansing ! To remove all traces of sunscreen from your skin, proceed with a double cleansing: apply a vegetable oil to your face and body and massage well. DISCOVER DOUBLE CLEANSING And what about fabrics? If your fabrics are stained with sunscreen, then find out the instructions on our blog HOW TO REMOVE SUNSCREEN FROM FABRICS
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Guide to Hydrolates: What They Are and How to Use Them
Hydrolate is a multipurpose product, essential in every beauty routine! You can use the hydrolate for skincare, but also for hair care, body care or as an aid for aromatherapy. In this article we will see together what a hydrolate is and how you can use it at its best! In this article we talk about: What is hydrolate? How do you use hydrolate? Which hydrolate to choose? What are the main hydrolates? What is hydrolate? Hydrolate is an aromatic distilled water that retains many of the properties of the plant from which it derives! Hydrolate is obtained from steam distillation through which essential oils are extracted from plants. During distillation, the flower, or leaf or bark of the plant is permeated by steam and its tissues are broken, thus releasing the precious essential oil which is carried away by the steam itself. When the steam condenses, hydrolate and essential oil are obtained which remain well separated due to their different specific weights. The hydrolate therefore maintains , in addition to the scent, many of the properties of the original plant and compared to its companion essential oil has a great advantage: it has no contraindications or risks and can be used pure. Furthermore, thanks to its slightly acidic pH, it is widely used in cosmetics because it is similar to the natural pH of skin and hair. How do you use hydrolate? Hydrolates have so many uses! They can be used alone or mixed to take advantage of their different properties. You can use the hydrolate as: Facial toner: Spray onto your face after cleansing and pat until absorbed. Now that your skin’s pH has been restored, you can move on to the next steps in your skincare routine! Refreshing Mist: The hydrolate with spray bottle is excellent for refreshing the skin during the day and counteracting the dryness caused by the sun, wind, heating and air conditioning. In the summer, keep your hydrolate in the fridge to amplify the sensation of freshness! Eye and skin decongestant : perfect for bags and dark circles or for skin swelling. Excellent compress with a pad soaked in chamomile or witch hazel hydrolate, even better if fresh from the fridge. Powder Makeup Fixer : Wet your brush with hydrolate to amplify the color of pigments and powder eyeshadows. Once your makeup is done, spray your hydrolate from a distance of 20 cm from your face, to fix the pigments on your face and have long-lasting makeup. Base for face masks: if you love preparing clay or Ayurvedic herbal face masks, replace the water with hydrolate to enrich your treatment with the energy of plants. You can also spray the hydrolate during the application time of the mask to keep it moist throughout the application. Diluting shampoo: organic and natural shampoos are very concentrated and diluting them helps you distribute them better and without waste. You can dilute shampoo with hydrolate for a scalp treatment during cleansing. Acid rinse: Hydrolates have an acidic pH that helps close the hair cuticles and remove limescale residues, for soft and shiny hair. Spray it on your hair after the final rinse and proceed with your styling. Scalp Lotion: Massage your scalp with rosemary hydrolate to stimulate growth, fight dandruff and scalp impurities. If you have a sensitive scalp, you can use chamomile or witch hazel hydrolate. Relax with aromatherapy: spray them on fabrics to give yourself well-being and relaxation. Each hydrolate has its own secret of well-being! Which hydrolate to choose? If you have chosen to use hydrolate for your skincare routine or hair care, here is a brief summary of the characteristics of the most common hydrolates! Rosemary Hydrolate : has toning, astringent, antiseptic properties; it is perfect for oily, combination, impure skin and for hair with dandruff, oily scalp, tendency to fall out. In aromatherapy, rosemary helps to combat anxiety, stimulates concentration and improves memory. Chamomile Hydrolate : loved for its relaxing, soothing and refreshing action. It is suitable for the treatment of dry, sensitive skin, subject to rosacea or redness and for the treatment of the scalp in case of eczema and psoriasis or to illuminate light hair. In aromatherapy it helps to combat stress, insomnia, irritability, anxiety and headaches. BUY CHAMOMILE HYDROLATE Hamamelis Hydrolate : is a cosmetic with a regenerating, soothing and purifying action. This hydrolate is ideal for the care of mixed, impure, sensitive skin or in case of redness and is perfect for the treatment of fragile hair that falls out . Damask Rose Hydrolate : a special hydrolate for its hydrating, soothing and anti-aging action, perfect for the treatment of dry, mature skin subject to rosacea and redness and for the treatment of dandruff and scalp irritation . In aromatherapy, Damask rose drives away negative thoughts and stress, restores balance and serenity. BUY ROSE HYDROLATE What are the main hydrolates? Discover all the main hydrolates and their characteristics! Fir Hydrolate: it is tonic and purifying, cleanses the air and frees the breath, ideal for acne-prone skin. Laurel Hydrolate: toning and purifying and balsamic for the skin, ideal against muscle fatigue. Its balsamic scent helps you breathe better. Massage it on your chest in case of cough or cold. Ideal in case of dandruff or oily skin to dilute shampoo on the spot or to rub your scalp. Cypress Hydrolate: has astringent, balsamic, toning and antibacterial properties, perfect for treating dandruff, impure and acne-prone skin, and to combat cellulite and water retention in addition to muds and clays because it stimulates circulation. Citronella Hydrolate: characterized by a powerful antioxidant and astringent action. It can also be applied to hair, making it soft and shiny. It is also perfect as an aftershave and as an insect repellent, goodbye mosquitoes! Helichrysum Hydrolate: it is a purifying, refreshing, hydrating and soothing water for the skin, ideal for all skin types, even the most delicate. Eucalyptus Hydrolate: purifying, refreshing and stimulating, ideal for the care of acne-prone skin and for breathing better in case of a cold. Orange Blossom Hydrolate : It is toning, soothing and refreshing, excellent for dry skin. In aromatherapy, like lavender hydrolate, it is also used for its calming and relaxing properties of the nervous system. Jasmine Hydrolate: has calming, soothing and rejuvenating properties. Suitable for sensitive skin, irritated skin, dry skin and acne-prone skin. Geranium Hydrolate: with a soothing, antiseptic and refreshing action that helps calm skin irritation and give a feeling of deep freshness. Perfect against dandruff. Juniper Hydrolate : with antiseptic, astringent and purifying properties for oily and impure skin and for the treatment of oily scalp, with dandruff and seborrhea. Draining and anti-cellulite if massaged on fatty deposits. Added to Jojoba oil it can be used to massage the scalp to encourage healthy hair growth. Incense Hydrolate: helps the body to recharge and recover its vital energies. It regenerates the skin and gives an even and lightened complexion. It is especially suitable for mature skin and against dull complexion. The aroma is fresh and resinous. St. John's Wort Hydrolate: rich in Flavonoids and Hyperforin, which confer antibiotic properties and adjuvants for the nervous system. It also has anti-inflammatory and healing activities. St. John's Wort is now indicated in the medical treatment of depressive syndromes such as seasonal depression and climacteric depression. It is also used in the treatment of skin inflammation and to promote the healing of wounds and burns. Hyssop Hydrolate: antioxidant, soothing and rebalancing properties make it ideal for the treatment of mature, sensitive and impure skin. Lavender Hydrolate: refreshing, soothing, relaxing, anti-inflammatory and decongestant, ideal for the care of all skin types even when irritated, excellent aftersun. In aromatherapy it is the treatment par excellence relaxing on the nervous system. Lentisk hydrolate: astringent, healing and antibacterial, adjuvant in case of varicose veins, venous stasis, heavy legs, hemorrhoids and sores. Oxygenates the skin of the face and strengthens the hair, also excellent for the treatment of psoriasis, dandruff and greasy hair. Lemon Hydrolate: ideal for lightening the complexion, astringent and purifying, particularly effective on oily skin and hair and skin with acne blemishes. Deeply hydrates and stimulates circulation. It is characterized by a very pleasant floral scent. Perfect against cellulite and varicose veins. Melissa Hydrolate: revitalizing, soothing and emollient, it is useful for the care of mature, dry and irritated skin. In Aromatherapy it is used for its relaxing effect to combat stress and sleep disorders. Mint Hydrolate: decongestant, purifying and refreshing, stimulating, it can be used against water retention and cellulite blemishes. It has a purifying and refreshing action. Ideal for use after cleansing on impure and combination skin, but also as a soothing after-sun or after-shave. It is also effective for relieving the itching of insect bites and for calming headaches. Myrtle Hydrolate: purifying, toning, balancing, ideal for the care of oily and impure skin. It is also known as an anti-aging agent for the treatment of the eye contour and as a decongestant for puffy eyes and dark circles. Also try as a remedy against bad breath or to spread in the air to purify your home Neroli Hydrolate: toning, soothing, refreshing and regenerating action especially on dry skin that calms and relaxes. Helps relieve fears and tension. Rosewood Hydrolate: Suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive, it is known for its soothing, toning and regenerating properties that make it ideal for use against stretch marks and skin irritation. Its astringent power means that the product can also be used as a deodorant, as well as a tonic and additive for creams and lotions. Petitgrain Hydrolate: It has a green scent. It can help us when we need deep relaxation or even in case of cough. If you have tension, even in the body, you can take a bath or a foot bath or a massage with this hydrolate. It is also very suitable for those who suffer from insomnia, in this case diffuse it in the bedroom half an hour before going to sleep. Sage Hydrolate: for the care and beauty of oily and impure skin and hair that regulates excessive perspiration and hair care. It has powerful antiseptic and antibacterial properties that reduce excessive sebum production, rebalancing the skin. It also regenerates and soothes skin subject to dermatitis, eczema, localized redness and skin irritation. Thyme Hydrolate : has purifying, antibacterial, sebum-regulating and microcirculation-stimulating properties. Furthermore, its antifungal and healing action helps to calm and soothe skin irritations and is a valid aid against acne. Tea Tree Hydrolate : antibacterial, disinfectant and skin tonic. The excellent effect of tea tree oil has long been known. Tea tree hydrolate has a more delicate and less annoying scent than pure oil. It can be used as an aid in the treatment of acne, eczema, psoriasis. It is also perfect as a deodorant spray for armpits and feet. Highly recommended as a spray for insect bites, scratches, abrasions or superficial wounds.
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CBD: What it is and what are its cosmetic benefits
CBD is a super cosmetic ingredient that is antioxidant, sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory, regenerating, and detoxifying. Rich in vitamins A, D and E and essential fatty acids, CBD is a substance present in hemp inflorescences. An excellent ally against irritation, redness, itching, acne, blemishes and to combat the signs of aging, CBD will become your new favorite ingredient! Let's see together what CBD is and what are the benefits of cosmetics with CBD oil. What is CBD CBD, also known as cannabidiol, is a substance present in the inflorescences of cannabinoid sativa. Cannabidiol is one of the many phytocomplexes (over 100) contained in the hemp plant, which is extracted exclusively from varieties whose cultivation is permitted by the European Community register. Don't let its origin fool you: CBD has no psychoactive effects and is not addictive. What is CBD used for in cosmetics? CBD has the great ability to interact with receptors that are part of the cutaneous endocannabinoid system . Our body is in fact able to produce cannabinoids which are called endocannabinoids , molecules released by our organism in response to external or internal stimuli such as stress, poor diet, changes in temperature etc. In the presence of skin inflammation, our body produces endocannabinoids that have an anti-inflammatory action on the skin and help regulate the immune system present on the skin, thus preventing the inflammation from becoming chronic. CBD cosmetics can interact directly with these endocannabinoid receptors, supporting the skin in its natural protection and regeneration processes. Why use CBD cosmetics CBD is an adaptogenic, regulatory and modulatory ingredient, that is, it adapts to the situation aiming to restore balance. Cosmetics with CBD are rich in linoleic acid and fatty acids that are useful for stimulating the production of elastin and supporting the skin barrier, a real wonder for the skin that is simultaneously hydrated. The anti-inflammatory properties and the ability to interact with the ECS make CBD cosmetics excellent for psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and acne. CBD is also an ingredient with antioxidant and anti-aging properties that help the skin to remain smooth and elastic and to counteract the damage of oxidative stress caused by smog, smoke, stress, UV rays and blue light. I'll let you in on a secret: CBD can also improve your mood ! By binding to receptors in the natural endocannabinoid system, CBD can slightly stimulate the release of dopamine and serotonin, the feel-good hormones! You can find highly concentrated CBD in Yuniwa Cosmetics Multi-Active Oil : a single bottle of oil contains 300 ml of CBD! BUY CBD FACIAL OIL This CBD Facial Oil is formulated starting from 9 precious vegetable oils, with elasticizing, toning, antioxidant and anti-aging properties. They repair the skin from sun damage, smog and help fight the signs of premature skin aging such as spots, wrinkles and loss of tone. In Yuniwa CBD facial oil you will find 300 mg of CBD, with anti-inflammatory and soothing action and is excellent for the treatment of acne, eczema, psoriasis, dry, irritated and problematic skin.
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Aloe Arborescens: properties and ways to use it
Aloe Arborescens is one of the lesser known cousins of Aloe Vera. Its leaves, although much smaller than those of Aloe Vera, are very rich of active ingredients for skin well-being. Aloe Arborescens: properties and benefits Aloe Arborescens has been used since ancient times for its regenerating and detoxifying power. It contains more than 200 active ingredients and is defined as an "adaptogen" ingredient because it can restore the body's balance and maintain good cellular function. Aloe arborescens is highly recommended for the treatment of skin and hair, thanks to its soothing, astringent, toning and regenerating properties. The use of aloe arborescens gel is useful in cases of acne, dandruff, sunburn, insect bites, redness and for all superficial skin problems. Rich in vitamins beneficial to the skin, such as vitamin B12, vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin E, aloe arborescens also has an antioxidant and decongestant action, which makes it excellent as an after-sun or as a regenerating treatment all year round. How is aloe gel obtained? You can obtain aloe gel at home directly from the leaves of the plant; the plant must be at least 2 years old to obtain good quality gel. Cut the leaf at the base, with a very sharp knife. Rinse the leaf carefully, cut off the tip, the base and the prickly edges and cut the leaf along its entire length; with a teaspoon you can collect the gel that you find inside, taking care not to take the sap of the leaves as well. Collect the gel in an airtight container, preferably dark glass, and consume the gel within 24 hours. Alternatively, you can freeze it, for example in ice cube trays, and defrost it as you need it. On Yumibio you can buy a very special Aloe Arborescens Gel , made with aloes from our garden. This Aloe Arborescens Gel is obtained from the whole leaf, that is, also using the external part of the leaf, which is very rich in active ingredients that you normally could not extract at home . The outer cuticle of the leaf in fact contains active ingredients that could irritate the skin but, thanks to a special manufacturing process, the irritating active ingredients are eliminated from our gel which thus maintains only the best of the plant. BUY ALOE ARBORESCENS GEL Yuniwa Cosmetics Aloe Arborescens gel is obtained only from adult plants, which have flowered at least once: this ensures the maximum concentration of active ingredients inside it! The processing is done with a special process, used only for the preservation of food , completely cold, so as not to damage in any way the active ingredients present in the plant. Without added fragrance, in airless bottle , to reduce the amount of preservatives needed and protect the product from oxidation. How is Aloe Arborescens used? Aloe Arborescens gel is a multipurpose cosmetic, which can be used on the face, body and hair. Vitamin E, vitamin C, antioxidant trace elements such as manganese and selenium combat skin aging and fight free radicals. Face mask Mix a spoonful of Aloe Gel and a teaspoon of jojoba oil for fabulous skin! Eye contour If you have puffy eyes or bags, put the aloe gel in the ice cube container and then use it as a cold compress to drain and deflate. Scrubs With a little salt or sugar and a spoonful of olive oil mixed with the gel you get an excellent regenerating, astringent and purifying scrub. Anti-dandruff pack One hour before shampooing apply as a compress on the scalp Folliculitis and irritation from hair removal Apply aloe gel after shaving to the affected areas for a soothing and healing effect on irritation and folliculitis.
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How to store vegetable oils properly?
Vegetable oils are our essential cosmetic allies to take care of our skin and hair essential cosmetic products to take care of our skin and hair. Let's find out how to store vegetable oils. What is the correct storage method for vegetable oils and oleolites? Environmental factors that affect vegetable oils How to store vegetable oils How long does vegetable oil last after opening? Thermolabile oils Non-thermolabile oils How to tell if a vegetable oil is still good? What is the correct storage method for vegetable oils and oleolites? In the bathroom, in the bedroom, in the fridge, but where do you put the oil you just bought to preserve it in the best way? Storing vegetable oil properly is essential to keep it healthy and active. The risks of incorrect storage of natural vegetable oils are mainly two: Oxidation and loss of functional active ingredients Organic decay and bacterial proliferation Both risks should be avoided, but if with the first the oil will no longer have beneficial effects, in the second and more dangerous case the spoiled oil could cause infections, especially in delicate areas such as eyes and lips. Environmental factors that affect vegetable oils The main environmental factors that interfere with the conservation and integrity of vegetable oil are: heat, light, air and humidity. Heat: Vegetable oils can lose their properties if they are stored at excessive temperatures. Vegetable oils are divided into thermolabile and non-thermolabile. Thermolabile are oils that do not tolerate high temperatures. Light: Light causes vegetable oil to oxidize. That is why they should always be stored in dark bottles. Air and Humidity: Both exposure to air and excessive humidity can cause oil to go rancid. Also be careful not to accidentally let any water droplets enter the bottle: the risk of mold is just around the corner! How to store vegetable oils Now that we have seen the main risk factors, let's move on to the indications for optimally preserving a natural vegetable oil. • Vegetable oils should be stored in a dark, tightly closed bottle, preferably glass. If you have a clear bottle, you can wrap it in cloth or aluminum foil to protect the oil from light. • No to sudden changes in temperature: this helps to preserve the integrity of the functional active ingredients. If you need to use an oil that has solidified, such as coconut oil in the winter, take only the amount you need and melt it near a radiator or in a double boiler. • Avoid keeping it in the bathroom, there is too much humidity . This advice is valid for all cosmetics, but for oils that do not contain preservatives this is a necessary precaution for good preservation of the product. • Do not transfer from one bottle to another and do not mix residues of the old oil in the new bottle. I know it is very tempting to clear the shelves, but better not to risk it! • Take the oil with a dropper (or a teaspoon if it has solidified). Remember that the dropper should never be placed on the skin, even if many videos have led us to believe otherwise: our skin is inhabited by millions of bacteria that keep it healthy, but that could contaminate your oil. How long does vegetable oil last after opening? The shelf life of a vegetable oil after opening varies from 6 months to 4 years. One of the factors that determines its duration is the thermolability that we talked about above. The more an oil is susceptible to heat, the more perishable it is, the shorter its duration will be. Olive oil is not very thermolabile and can last up to 4 years after opening without altering, if well stored. It is best to store oils that are affected by d in a place that is as cool and dry as possible. Thermolabile oils • Sweet almond oil (PAO up to 1 year) • Linseed oil (PAO 6 months) • Rosehip oil (PAO months) • Blackcurrant oil (PAO 6 to 9 months) • Wheat germ oil (PAO 1 year) • Pumpkin seed oil (PAO 1 year) • Carrot oleolite (PAO 1 year) • Hemp oil (PAO 1 year) • Oleolites (PAO 1 year) Non-thermolabile oils These oils are more heat resistant and tend to last longer (but this category also includes oils that last up to 6 months, but they tolerate higher temperatures better). They are those that can be heated in the case of cosmetic preparations. • Olive oil (PAO 2 years) • Argan oil (PAO 2 years) • Jojoba oil (PAO over 1 year) • Andiroba oil (PAO months - 1 year) • Avocado oil (PAO 1 year) • Baobab oil (PAO 2 years) • Marula oil (PAO 2 years) • Coconut oil (PAO 2 years) • Shea butter (PAO 1 year) • Macadamia oil (PAO 1 year) • Castor oil (PAO 2 years) • Sesame oil (PAO 1 year) • Grapeseed oil (PAO 1 year) • Tocopherol/Vitamin E (PAO 2 years) Remember, in any case, to always check the product before each use and always respect the PAO or expiry date indications on the label. How to tell if a vegetable oil is still good? To carry out a check, two factors must be taken into account: smell and appearance. A rancid oil has: a sour smell, rather than a pleasant one a dull appearance instead of a clear one The presence of lumps is also an indication of an alteration in the integrity of the oil, except in the case of oils that have low solidification points such as coconut oil which solidifies at 25°. If you have doubts about the quality of the product, do not use it, but dispose of it correctly according to the provisions of your Municipality.
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Essential Oils for Skin, Children, Aromatherapy
Essential oils are substances naturally present in plants that can be used to make cosmetic products, but also to be diffused into the environment to benefit from aromatherapy. In this guide we will discover together how to use essential oils safely and how to choose the essential oil for your needs. In this article I'll tell you: What are essential oils? How to use essential oils for skin Which essential oils to choose for the skin Essential oils for children How to Use Essential Oils for Aromatherapy Which essential oils to choose for aromatherapy What are essential oils? Essential oils are liquid and volatile substances, insoluble or poorly soluble in water , with a characteristic fragrance. They are 100% natural substances and in fact free from chemical and toxic components. Each of them has excellent and specific properties that treat the well-being of body and soul. Essential oils, the essence of the plant, are present in particular cells that can be found in the trunk, roots, branches, inside the flower, leaves, seeds or fruits. They are usually extracted by cold pressing , by extraction from the peel of the fruit, in the case of citrus fruits such as lemon, orange, mandarin and by steam distillation, in stainless steel containers, for the majority of aromatic plants. How to use essential oils for skin The skin is the largest organ in our body and is subjected to daily stress such as atmospheric changes and external agents (smog, smoke, stress) which cause sensitization, dryness, redness and skin imbalances. Essential oils are a precious ally that comes to the aid of the skin because they can be used in many different ways. In nature there are many essential oils that are ideal for treating the different needs of various skin types. Essential oils are highly concentrated in active ingredients that could be irritating, and must therefore always be used diluted using a carrier oil such as Sesame Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Argan Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, choosing the most suitable one based on the skin type. They can also be used by diluting a few drops in your cream for an intensive and targeted action. Some essential oils are irritating when in contact with the skin and I therefore advise you not to use them for DIY preparations. Among these are the essential oils of Cinnamon, Lemongrass, Melissa, Angelica, Fennel, Citrus and Clove. Which essential oils to choose for the skin - Essential Oils for Normal Skin For normal skin you can use Rosehip essential oil, an excellent rebalancing agent, ideal for all skin types, Roman Chamomile essential oil as a moisturizer and Ylang Ylang essential oil which is an excellent antiseptic. - Essential Oils for Oily Skin For oily skin, excellent products are Orange essential oil, which is astringent and antiseptic, Lemon essential oil, which is antiseptic, disinfectant and astringent, Myrtle essential oil, which is purifying and sebum-regulating, and Rosemary essential oil, which has a clarifying and rebalancing action. - Essential Oils for Impure and Acne-Prone Skin Skin with diffuse or localized impurities such as pimples, blackheads and boils can benefit from the use of Tea Tree essential oil and Cajeput essential oil. In case of acne, Patchouli and Juniper essential oils are excellent. - Essential Oils for Dry and Sensitive Skin This type of skin is hydrated, calmed and soothed with valid allies such as essential oils of Lavender and Chamomile . Also excellent are the healing and soothing essential oil of Cypress and the essential oil of Carrot , with a healing action. - Essential Oils for Mature Skin On mature skin, you can use the essential oil of Rosehip, an excellent anti-wrinkle, the essential oil of Geranium to fight wrinkles and expression lines. For sagging skin, essential oil of Patchouli. In the case of spots, you can use the essential oil of Lemon with a lightening action or the essential oil of Carrot, an excellent anti-aging. - Anti-Cellulite Essential Oils This blemish can be treated with Orange essential oil which stimulates blood circulation, Cypress essential oil which improves venous and lymphatic circulation and Ginger essential oil which improves circulation. Essential oils for children This in-depth article on essential oils for children was written by Dr. Annarita Marino, specializing in Pediatric Surgery. Which essential oils should absolutely be avoided: • Camphor essential oil: used in flu conditions, in children the main side effects are associated with oral intake, accidentally because it is present in some medicines or in some homeopathic preparations. But it is also easily absorbed through the skin causing minor but still serious side effects. Side effects include nausea and vomiting, and in more serious cases liver toxicity. • Wintergreen oil or Canada tea used in respiratory infections, has a mint-like scent making it appealing to children, is metabolized to salicylic acid causing the toxic effects of aspirin. • Tea Tree essential oil: one of the most used in the treatment of acne and inflammatory conditions, if ingested it can cause an altered mental state and at a skin level it is highly allergenic causing skin irritation in children. Which essential oils to use with caution : • Lavender Oil: its calming and relaxing effects are well documented, but in children, especially very young ones, it can cause very serious contact dermatitis. For this reason, it is recommended to use it diluted or a few drops on the pillow or in the bath water. • Eucalyptus oil: rarely toxic if inhaled but oral intake can cause nausea, vomiting and even coma. So which essential oils to use and how : All essential oils should not be used pure on the skin of children up to 6 years of age, the ideal can be used through aroma diffusers, or nebulized on clothes. Lavender, for example, helps to relax and ease tension, vanilla with its sweet aroma gives serenity and makes the environment relaxing and playful, lemon calms and together with mandarin improves mood. Always remember to choose pure essential oils, without colorants and from organic farming , use them for a moment of pampering for the child or to make his play environment pleasant. It can also be a good idea to spray perfume on our body to strengthen the mother-child bond and create new memories. I recommend some that I find very delicate and that could be perfect for your moments of cuddling. Among my favorites there is definitely Carezza by Olfattiva which in addition to having an adorable note contains vanilla, lemon and mandarin, a delicate and relaxing scent like a hug. Nuvola by Crema is also a perfume suitable for mother and baby, with its sweet and aromatic notes of vanilla and lemon. If you are looking for a relaxing fragrance, perfect for cuddling before bed, then you can't miss Abbraccio , with lavender and bergamot to bring balance and optimism. Bibliography: The Essentials of Essential Oils , Rebecca M. Plant, MD et al, Advances in Pediatrics j (2019). Goldfrank's Toxicologic Emergencies, Tenth Edition Jager W, Buchbauer G, Jirovetz L, et al. Percutaneous absorption of lavender oil from a massage oil . J Soc Cosmet Chem 1992;43:49–54. How to Use Essential Oils for Aromatherapy Aromatherapy uses the essential oils to achieve well-being and balance of mind, body and emotions. You can use essential oils for aromatherapy in several ways: Pot pourri of dried flowers is a simple and effective way to diffuse the scent of essential oils in rooms, add a few drops to the dried flowers The steam from a small saucepan with 250 ml of boiling water and 3/6 drops of essential oil will perfume the whole house Aromatherapy diffusers are very practical and made of ceramic Incense is perhaps the oldest form of aromatherapy. You can add 1 drop of essential oil per 10 cm of stick to the incense In the bath water or in the shower. In the bathtub, you can add up to 10 drops of essential oil. In the shower, you can put 3/4 drops on the sponge. In the radiator humidifier containers, put a few drops in the radiator humidifier water Which essential oils to choose for aromatherapy Relaxing Aromatherapy : To relax your body and mind, chase away negative thoughts and stress, you can use the essential oils of Bitter Orange , Chamomile, Jasmine, Incense, Lavender, Mandarin, Patchouli, Vanilla. Use them individually or create your own mix for your spaces. Energizing Aromatherapy: In the kitchen, in your study or in the office, you can diffuse essential oils that stimulate energy and concentration, bringing a good mood into your day. Among the energizing essential oils we find those of Bergamot, Geranium, Lemon, Rosemary, Ginger. Balsamic Aromatherapy: You can purify the environment to bring a touch of freshness into your home using essential oils of Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Thyme, Tea Tree . They are also excellent for colds and stuffy noses! Aphrodisiac Aromatherapy : Perfumes can help you free your body and mind, even in the most intimate moments! For an evening to remember, you can diffuse essential oils of Cinnamon, Rose, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang into the environment.
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How is the safety of cosmetics assessed?
Every cosmetic product that reaches the market, even natural and eco-biological, must have passed safety tests to ensure that it reaches the consumer in full compliance with rigorous chemical-physical, microbiological, formulation and toxicological requirements. Ensuring safety for the consumer and end user is a priority, find out which tests are carried out! Safety of cosmetic products: the tests What should every cosmetic label indicate? What safety tests do cosmetics undergo? Microbiological analysis Stability test and compatibility test Challenge test In-Use Test The most common non-mandatory tests on cosmetics Patch-testing Patch test on sensitive skin Heavy metal testing Nickel test or Nickel test Clinical comedogenicity test Ophthalmological test Safety of cosmetic products: the tests Every cosmetic on the market has what we can define as a European patent, a document that guarantees its safety and is drawn up after the product has passed all the tests. Even before all this happens, a responsible person must be designated, in fact the European Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 , in its article 4 imposes that only cosmetics for which a Responsible Person has been designated can be placed on the market . This person can be physical or legal , such as for example the manufacturing company, the importer or the distributor. Articles 10 and 11 then insert the request for the production of Product Information Documentation, the PIF - Product Information File , which in its second part contains the Safety Assessment, the Safety Report. The ingredients used in the formulation are tested and evaluated, as well as the formulation itself , from its physical-chemical and microbiological properties to the manufacturing method, and existing data and evidence on the effects on human health caused by the cosmetic product following its use are reviewed. Subsequently, always before being placed on the European market , the product must be notified to the CPNP - Cosmetic Product Notification Portal CPNP will then make this official information available electronically to : competent supervisory authorities Market analysis Consumer evaluation and information poison control centres or similar European organisations The CPNP also contains a separate module (Article 16) for cosmetic products containing nanomaterials. Having timely access to this information, for example in the event of a serious and unexpected allergic reaction, is of fundamental importance. At this point the cosmetic is ready to be labelled! This phase is regulated by Article 19 of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. What should every cosmetic label indicate? Each label on the packaging, i.e. the bottle, must necessarily report some information, this: the function of the cosmetic : face cream, hair conditioner etc. INCI or the list of ingredients according to the International Nomenclature any precautions , for example avoiding contact with eyes and other Company name or name of the Responsible Person the nominal quantity at the time of bottling, e.g. 200 ml, 100 g etc. expiration date or PAO - Period after Opening. the manufacturing batch reference , which must be printed indelibly and is a numeric or alphanumeric code that identifies the production batch. Through the batch number it is possible to trace the processing phases, the raw materials used and the production period. Of fundamental importance because in case of formulation or even health problems , through the acronym, it is possible to identify and possibly withdraw from the market the cosmetics belonging to the specific production batch. But specifically, what tests were the formulas subjected to before being prepared, packaged and then distributed? What safety tests do cosmetics undergo? After the formula has been created , always associated with a scrupulous regulatory check-up of the individual raw materials and the finished product, tests are carried out in the cosmetic laboratories which, if passed, will guarantee the safety of the product. There are three mandatory and necessary tests that every cosmetic must pass before being placed on the market. Microbiological analysis Stability Test + Compatibility Test Challenge Test or In-USE Test Microbiological analysis With the exception of those considered to be at low microbiological risk, products with high or low pH products with low water content or anhydrous, without water alcohol-based products products with raw materials hostile to microbiological proliferation All cosmetics must be subjected to microbiological testing to ensure that the product falls within the specifications of categories 1 and 2 of the European standard ISO 17516:2014 which establishes the acceptable quantitative and qualitative microbiological limits for finished cosmetic products, in particular for mesophilic aerobic microorganisms and specific microorganisms such as: E. coli Pseudomonas aeruginosa Staphylococcus aureus Candida albicans All microbiological specifications must be attached to the PIF Safety Assessment, paying additional attention to those of cosmetic products for sensitive areas of the body, such as mucous membranes or those intended for children under three years of age. Microbiological analyses must always be repeated on each production batch . They are essential to guarantee the safety and health of the consumer. Stability test and compatibility test Stability Tests are performed to evaluate whether or not a product maintains its chemical-physical quality characteristics, its safety, its functionality and its intact texture and fragrance. In fact, when a cosmetic leaves the laboratory it is immediately subjected to various stress factors, storage, transport, climate and even just the passing of time! These tests simulate the possible stresses that the cosmetic will encounter and make it possible to evaluate whether the cosmetic will remain within strict limits of acceptability. The results of the stability tests must be reported and considered, mandatorily, in the PIF Safety Assessment. There are no mandatory standard procedures; the company defines internal protocols by establishing the exposure conditions to which the product is subjected , the time intervals at which to evaluate the progress of the tests and the parameters to be assessed. Typically, the conditions to which cosmetic samples are subjected are: Exposure to high temperatures; Exposure to high humidity; Cyclic tests with exposure to temperature and/or humidity conditions varied at regular intervals; Freezing/thawing tests for products that may crystallize or become opaque or for two-phase systems (emulsions); Exposure to light; Mechanical stress test; Thermal shock test The cosmetic is subjected to these stability tests in an accelerated manner. In addition to the Stability Tests on the product, Compatibility Tests must be carried out between the product itself and the packaging, to ensure that the packaging does not alter the product and vice versa do not experience frequent breakages or deformations of the container; the packaging is kept correctly and any product is lost; no reduction in product weight occurs Challenge test The Challenge test is carried out on all cosmetics that have a preservative system that protects them from microbiological attacks. It allows to evaluate the effectiveness of the latter because during this test the microbiological stress to which the cosmetic product will be subjected once it leaves the laboratory and is placed on the market is simulated . The test is carried out with artificial contamination of the product by inoculation of microorganisms into the cosmetic. There is no official method but the reference standard isISO 11930:2012 which provides parameters such as analytical methods, the strains of microorganisms to be used and the method of interpreting the results. The microorganisms with which the product sample is contaminated for the test are Pseudomonas aeruginosa Staphylococcus aureus E. coli Candida albicans Aspergillus brasiliensis After the preliminary evaluation of the sample, and after contamination, the decrease in contamination of the product itself is evaluated at predefined time intervals. T0: time zero is the moment of contamination. T1: after 24 hours T2: after 48 hours T7: after the seventh day T14: after 14 days T28: after the twenty-eighth day to verify the total lack of the initial microbiological load There are three possible outcomes: Compliance with Criterion A: the microbiological risk is acceptable, the cosmetic is considered protected against microbial proliferation per se. Compliance with Criterion B: the microbiological risk is acceptable, but the microbiological risk assessment must also take into account other factors in addition to the formulation itself, such as the type of packaging, perhaps airless instead of jar, to reduce the microbiological risk. Non-compliance: the preservative system is not suitable. The Challenge test is a test that must be carried out on all cosmetic products that , under normal storage and use conditions, present a risk of bacteriological contamination. Only products with a very low microbiological risk such as alcohol-based products and products with a basic pH such as soaps are exempt from these tests. But there is another test for them! In-Use Test For cosmetic products characterized by the absence of a preservative system , where therefore the challenge test would not give a logical result, we proceed to the In Use Test , that is the real use of a product by a variable number of sample consumers who will have to use it as per its function. After a period of use, the costs will be evaluated to verify whether, after the real use of the cosmetic, the microbiological values fall within the suitability limits. The outcome of the Stability Tests, Compatibility Tests, Microbiological analyses and Challenge tests or in-Use Tests is essential for defining the minimum shelf life date, from which the expiry date will be established, or the PAO Period after Opening. In the Beauty Blog Yumibio I explain the differences between cosmetic expiration and PAO. The most common non-mandatory tests on cosmetics In addition to the microbiological tests required by law, cosmetics can be subjected to other tests to ascertain their characteristics and properties. These clinical tests are divided into two macro categories : In vivo clinical trials: these are performed on a controlled group of volunteers, following the ethical principles of the Declaration of Helsinki regarding medical research involving human subjects and under the careful supervision of a specialist. In vitro clinical tests: these are used to evaluate the biological characteristics of cosmetic ingredients to assess their safety and specific functionality. Let's see what the main tests are Patch-testing The Patch Test is carried out in vivo, evaluates the extent of irritation of a cosmetic and verifies that there are no irritating effects following the application of a product on the skin or mucous membrane. Allergens, called haptens, are applied to the skin under standardized conditions. This test is always carried out under the careful supervision of a dermatologist to check whether or not the cosmetic causes the appearance of irritation, such as erythema and edema. At the end of the exposure period, skin responses are evaluated and a score is assigned ranging from 0 - no adverse reaction to 4 - severe reaction. Although the Patch test is not mandatory, it is very important to evaluate the skin tolerability of the product. Products subjected to this test may have the wording "Dermatologically tested" on the label. Patch test on sensitive skin The same test but carried out on a sample of subjects with sensitive skin and, if passed, guarantees the very high tolerability of the products even on people with hypersensitive skin, such as children, skin problems or intended for specific areas of the body. Heavy metal testing It is used to verify the degree of presence of Nickel, Lead, Chromium and Cobalt in products. Heavy metals are substances distributed in the environment, in food and water, it is impossible to avoid daily exposure but we are talking about infinitesimal quantities. In cosmetics their presence is tolerated only if in traces called technically unavoidable. The presence of heavy metals is accepted only if: Heavy metals are present at technically unavoidable trace levels; If their presence occurs despite compliance with good manufacturing practices; The Istituto Superiore di Sanità (ISS) has indicated the maximum limits that can be considered technically unavoidable traces. "Nickel tested" cosmetics are highly sought after because many everyday objects may contain this metal and numerous allergies have developed. Nickel test or Nickel test Nickel allergy is one of the most common contact allergies and this is the most frequently performed test. As with other heavy metal tests, it is up to the manufacturer to decide whether or not to perform them. This test evaluates the sensitization potential and the value of 1 ppm - one part per million - is considered the threshold: Nickel concentrations below the tolerance limit of 1 ppm are considered safe and without sensitizing potential. In order to include the wording "Nickel Tested < 1 ppm" on the label , the requirements must be met; the test must be performed and repeated on each production batch. Clinical comedogenicity test An in vivo test that allows to verify whether the product has comedogenic effects or not, both open, blackheads, closed, whiteheads and that does not worsen the condition of any existing ones. Ophthalmological test A test performed in vitro or in vivo to verify whether the product causes eye irritation as a side effect. For cosmetic products intended for use in the periocular area or at risk of contact with the eyes such as children's bath foam, a clinical ophthalmological evaluation can be carried out to define the tolerability of the periocular mucosa to the use of the product. The ophthalmologist evaluates, with respect to certain parameters and observation times, the appearance of erythema, edema, and tearing.
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